Salamanca and Farmgate Markets, Hobart

Last week I was lucky enough to go to Hobart for a conference. I dragged The Boy along with me so I'd have someone to hang out with in my spare time (plus he needed a holiday).

We arrived in Hobart just on noon on Saturday morning, raced to the hotel along with my work colleague Ms Irish, dumped our bags and raced back to Salamanca Place to ensure we didn't miss out on Hobart's legendary Salamanca Markets that are only on til 3pm each Saturday.

The markets are located on the street in front of historic Salamanca Place (which I believe once served as the hub of Hobart's whaling operations).  Traffic is diverted and the street is given over to 100s of fantastic market stalls selling everything from antiques, bric-a-brac, organic fruit and vege, souvenirs, homemade jams and sweets, crafty stuff, socks, clothes, doughnuts...the list goes on and on.

Within five minutes of hitting the markets I blew all my cash at the first stall we saw - an amazing stall selling antiques and bric-a-brac. I bought the cute little birdcage clock (in the picture below) and bargained with them to throw in a small plate for free as I was blowing all my dosh on the clock but REALLY wanted the plate as well.  Don't be afraid to bargain at the bric-a-brac stalls.

Given that I had no cash left and about 2 hours of wandering to embark on I joined the lengthy ATM queue to replenish my wallet. TIP: bring lots of cash if you plan on spending (and even if you don't as you're sure to find something that simply must have).

Don't fear food lovers, there are plenty of stalls selling food and snacks to replenish your grumbling tummy.  Whilst it was too cold for snow-cones The Boy enjoyed a Bratwurst sambo - a fancy version of the Sausage Sandwich.

I've cut read meat, chicken and pork out of my diet so hunted down a stall selling something Miss Piggy friendly. I ended up with a delicious, but super messy to eat, Eggplant Roll from a Persian food vendor.

And of course lunch isn't complete without something sweet to finish. The Boy seems to have a homing radar for Doughnuts and quickly sniffed out this Doughnut stand. These were hot off the press and perfect for warming us up as the weather was getting cool.

The very last stall we visited in the markets was without a doubt my favourite. A lovely Hobart lass, Holly, has created a series of stuffed toys, t-shirts, brooches, necklaces and pins around a fantasy army called The Hiiragi with which she hopes to take over the world (insert *evil laugh* here).  It sounds kooky, but the toys are uber-cute and her enthusiasm for her creations is infectious. I walked away with two brooches and two tie-pins, and somehow convinced The Boy that I must have a stuffed toy for X-mas!  Just looking at the pictures below puts a smile on my face - I wish I had an imagination and creative talent half as amazing as Holly's.

The next day, Sunday, we decide to visit the Farmgate Markets, a local farmers market showcasing some amazing Tassie produce.  There is everything from fresh fruit and vege, free range pork, goat meat, cheese, bread, jams, nuts and a cafe selling coffee and snacks.  If I lived in Hobart this would definitely be a weekly pilgrimage for me.

We didn't walk away with much from these markets - mainly as we were full from our breakfast and also a lot of the food was perishable and we were staying in a hotel without a kitchen.

So there you have it - two amazing Hobart markets that rival anything we have in Sydney.

Salamanca Markets are on each Saturday, 9am - 3pm and can be found at Salamanca Place. 

The Farmgate Markets can be found at the Melville Street car park (corner of Elizabeth and Melville Streets) every Sunday 9am – 1pm.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co, New York

I know what you're thinking. Really, I do. Why would we fly all the way to New York just to eat at Bubba Gump Shirmp Co. when there are literally a million great places to eat in The Big Apple. Why descend on a rather pricey chain restaurant?

Well, when you've been touring the city on The Big Red Bus like we had for four hours and you're dumped off at Times Square, crazed with hunger and being bumped around by the crowds your eyes just fix on the first thing they see. And for us that was Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.

To be honest the place is kind of fun, especially if you're a fan of the movie Forrest Gump. There's a lot of paraphernalia about reminding us of the restaurants founder "Forrest Gump". There's no mention however of who really owns this joint. Curiouser and curiouser.

Miss M and I both start with a bowl of New England Clam Chowder ($5.99) which the menu helpfully (or regretfully) tells me has 320 calories - I have no idea if that's good or bad?  The soup is great and hits the spot after the windy, cold weather we encountered on the top deck of our Big Red Bus.  I really LOVE New England Clam Chowder - I bought four cans of the Campbells offering to bring home with me but they were sadly left in my bag in the back of a taxi *sobs*.

After the soup we decide to share a Dumb Luck Coconut Shrimp ($19.29) that is served with an uber sweet Cajun marmalade and french fries. This deep fried extravaganza hit us up for 1000 calories, but we're sharing so it's only 500 calories each *phew*. The menu tells us that this is a favourite meal of Forrest. 

Our lunch at Bubba Gump was quite enjoyable - most of all for the amazing view we had over Times Square.  If you can get a window seat it's well worth it.

Pepe Saya, Booza and Pat and Stick, Tempe

There's a guy in my office (let's call him Mr Smooth) who has a "supplier" for just about everything.  Ask him where he got his snazzy umbrella and he'll tell you about a deal from "his supplier" in Mascot - 10 golf umbrellas for $10, that sort of thing. For ages there were jokes about his "suppliers" and things falling off the back of trucks.

For the last few months we've been hearing him wax lyrical about his "butter supplier" in Tempe. Yeah yeah - who the heck makes butter in Tempe I ask you...pfft. And then I started to really listen (something I not really that good at truth be told) and it turns out his butter supplier is Pepe Saya - the artisan butter makers who supply a raft of Sydney's top restaurants with luscious, unctuous cultured butter.

And then Mr Smooth started making rumblings about a lunch time expedition to the Pepe Saya factory in Tempe...would I perhaps be interested?  Would I ever!  What really twisted my rubber arm is the fact that Pepe Saya also shares its factory space with Pat and Stick (makers of homemade ice-cream sandwiches that will literally blow your socks off) and Booza (an Arabic style mastic {aka tree gum} ice-cream).

Not only was Mr Smooth chauffeuring myself and two butter-lovin' colleagues to Tempe to see what the factory outlet had on offer he'd also arranged a tour of the butter making factory with Pepe Saya owners Pierre and Melissa.

The butter at Pepe Saya is cultured butter which doesn't mean it likes Opera or Shakespeare, it means that "lactic culture is added to encourage ripening and to add flavor to the cream. Because it is ripened, cultured butter contains an extra dose of microorganisms making it a probiotic food" (sourced from pepesaya.com.au).  Basically this is butter that is good for you. Sounds good to me.

When we first enter the factory area the first thing I notice is the lush, creamy smell (probably helped along a bit by the Pat and Stick ice-cream maker in the corner) and the GIANT mound of butter sitting on the bench being hand moulded by the Pepe Saya staff.  

A mountain of butter just waiting to be packaged

Hand rolling the butter for restaurant deliveries

Look at all that butter - oh my!

For sale - the butter at the factory is a bargain! I went home with three of these pads, plus some other stuff...oops.

Pat and Stick doing some ice-cream making.

Ice-cream and butter unite - Pat (from Pat and Stick) and Pierre (from Pepesaya).

After our tour of the factory  it's now time for the good stuff...a tasting. Let's just say that Pierre is not at all stingy with letting us sample the butter - he layers it on like cheese and jokes that if you can't see your bite mark in the butter than it's not spread thick enough.

Pepe Saya make two types of butter - a salted and an unsalted and Pierre dishes up a sample of both for us to try. The salted butter is divine with an obvious hint of salt with every mouthful.  The butter is also so creamy having less moisture content then the butter you'd buy in the supermarket. I also really enjoyed the unsalted butter as flavour of the cream really stood out - it had a very different flavour to the salted offering.

Sonoma rye bread; salted butter (top) and unsalted butter (below - which is sliced as it's fresh from the fridge thus hard).

As well as butter Pepe Saya also had a raft of other products on offer (both under the Pepe Saya label and their other brand Homemade Fine Foods). Let's just say I went home with more than just three little pads of butter - garlic sauce, custard, rice pudding other desserts... just to name a few.  Let's just say their rice pudding, custard and Bread and Butter pudding are TO DIE FOR!

Deliciousness everywhere you look.

More samples - best lunch break I've ever had!

Of course, lunch isn't complete without dessert. This is my first Pat and Stick experience and I can assure you it won't be the last. I bought a Vanilla Lace and Ben from Pat and Stick insisted we also try the Espresso Lace. OMG! The ice-cream is amazing and the oat and almond lace cookie sort of caramelize during the cooking process so they have the texture of toffee.

I didn't try the Booza this visit, but I have tried it before and it's very different to the Streets ice-cream we grew up eating.  The flavour of mastic is quite strong - definitely an unusual flavour.

You can visit the factory warehouse at Unit 4, 3 Wood Street, Tempe (first left after the new IKEA - I sure know where I'd rather be)!

They are there most days, Saturdays and Sundays included. I'd call ahead before visiting to ensure there is someone there (9519 2793).  The prices at the factory are at least a third cheaper than other retails outlets or the farmers markets - bargain central!

Umi Kaiten-Zushi, Haymarket

As the BFF and I sat stuffing are faces full of sushi at the sushi train at Umi Kaiten-Zushi I couldn’t help but wonder (she says channeling her inner Carrie Bradshaw) isn’t a little...mean to have a big fish tank in the middle of the sushi train where the fish can watch us eating their relatives? 

Occasionally we’d look up from our fishy feast and spot the fish in the tank staring right at us. I felt a bit guilty, but not guilty enough to stop eating. In fact between us we polished off FOURTEEN plates of sushi. Sorry fish, but you were really tasty.

Whenever I’ve walked past Umi Kaiten-Zushi there has been a line out the door, but this was our lucky night as it seems people are less likely to queue for food when it’s bucketing down outside.  I hope this theory rings true as I’m attempting to visit Jamie’s Italian tonight where I’ve heard tales of someone  waiting TWO HOURS to get a table.

The billboard outside Umi's entrance boats over 100 different types of sushi. With an offer like that how could we resist?

Let the feasting begin...

Fresh salmon topped with Seaweed Salad - a nice way to kick things off.

Fresh salmon topped with fish roe - fancy

Cooked Tuna Ship - my favourite (cos I have boring Aussie tastes perhaps)?

Money Bag type things stuffed with plump, juicy prawns

Drumroll - ROAST PORK BELLY roll. A sushi revelation I tell you.

No idea what this is...but it was tasty.

Salmon Nigiri - that has had the blowtorch treatment.

Tuna Nigiri with sesame seeds

This is what happens when you can't use chopsticks...wah, my sushi! I ate it anyway though.

Eel Nigiri - don't knock it til you've tried it as it's damn tasty.

Edamame - nice.

Some soft of blow-torched fish - mystery fish sushi.

Soft Shell Crab handroll - really really good, espeicaly as it was freshly made to order.

Crab Claw - another favourite.

Some sort of flan type dessert - couldn't quite pick out the flavour, not caramel though (boo).

We had a discount voucher for 25% off our meal (or $20 - whichever was the smaller amount) so our meal ended up costing $40 which is fairly good for two people considering the amount of food we ate.  Without the voucher it would've been $60 - still not bad really, especially as we ate quite a bit of fresh salmon and other not so cheap plates.

Glass Brassiere, Sydney

For weeks I’ve been wondering what those pesky pink dots adorning our footpaths have been about. What the hell are they for? As I got off the bus at the QVB, where I was meeting up with The BFF, there they were again...dot dot dot dot as far as the eye could see leading right past the Hilton’s Glass Brassiere.

Maybe that’s what they are saying – “go and eat at Glass Brassiere, you won’t regret it”.

Being a modern gal I’d made our reservation at Glass via Twitter – directly with Executive Chef Joey Pavlovich, who came over to say HI when we arrived at the restaurant.  The BFF and I both thought this was really nice, especially for a chef who oversees a kitchen as busy as the one at Glass.

Adding to our excitement is the fact that the dining room at Glass is just stunning! A thirteen meter high window runs the length of the restaurant giving the most stunning views of the QVB.  This has to be one of the most captivating views in the city - the QVB is just so close it feels like you could just reach out and touch it.  I love seeing this beautiful old building from another vantage point - spectacular.
 

I also have to give massive props to our lovely waiter who endured are inability to make a decision about what to order. Should we have the degustation? No, too much food. What about steak? Hmmm...no. What about fish. Nah. He then runs as through his favourites...nope again. In the end we ordered a whole bunch of Tapas dishes - everything on the Tapas menu in fact (minus the Samosas as I just wasn't in a Samosa kind of mood).  We thought this would give us a small meal - a taste of lots of different small dishes. How wrong we were - I was literally bursting by the time we got through everything.

Deciding what to order is thirsty work so we start off with some drinks - a cranberry juice for The BFF and a soda water for moi - it is a school night after all.  A basket of bread quickly arrives too which we foolishly demolish - there goes the stomach room.

Because we're now "friends with the chef" thanks to the marvel of twitter, Joey sends out an Amuse Bouche to start us off - a spoonful of avocado salad.  It's delicious and bodes well for the rest of the meal.

Next four of our tapas dishes arrive: prawn toast with coriander, corn and topped with a chipotle sauce ($8 pp); Spanish Ortiz Ondarroa anchovies from the tin with garlic toast ($24 00); Spring Bay scallop with XO sauce, tofu, pork scratchings ($8 pp); and last (for now) but not least tempura zucchini flower with ricotta and anchovy ($7 pp).

We shared just one piece of the zucchini flower, the scallop and the prawn toast and it was so sweet when our waiter came along and cut these in half for us...neatly down the middle so we were all even Stevens. I gotta tell you, cutting a zucchini flower in half looks like hard work, but I reckon he did a pretty stellar job.

Each dish was really lovely - very flavoursome, and they all looked so vibrant and fresh. I especially loved the crispy prawn toast with its spicy hit from the chipotle. The anchovies with garlic toast were also a hit with me - the garlic toast was a great offset to the saltiness of the anchovies, and the dish felt very rustic being served on a wooden board with the anchovies still in the tin and sitting atop its very retro looking packaging.

Maybe Joey read my post about my Yum Cha adventure at The Eight where I lamented at only having one Peking Duck Pancake as he sent out a basket of Duck Pancakes. A whole basket just for us - we each had four or five pancakes. Oh happy days.

By this stage I'm starting to feel quite full. Having gorged ourselves on bread and duck pancakes both The BFF and I are groaning as our tummies expand.  Luckily there is a bit of a breather before the next course arrives: chicken liver parfait with a pear jelly, chutney and toasted brioche ($15.00) and a charcuterie board with onion relish and grilled bread ($22.00).

The parfait, oh the parfait! It was silky smooth and utterly moreish. The BFF ordered a second basket of bread and wouldn't let the waiter take the pot of parfait from him until every last morsel was removed - it was THAT good! The charcuterie board was absolutely stellar - the cured meats cut so paper thin they practically melted on the tongue.

By this stage I really need to lay down and let my poor stomach digest some food.  No time for that as our last three dishes arrive at the table: chilli whole crispy school prawns with Szechuan salt and an aioli dipping sauce ($15.00); tempura soft shell crab with nam jim ($10.00); and slow cooked octopus with kimchi and apple ($15.00).

I am in a serious food coma by this stage and forgot to adjust the white balance on my camera to account for the fact that the sun had set - so apologies for the slightly "yellow" hue on this photos. 

Crispy school prawns and soft shell crab are two of my favourite dishes (amongst all my other favourite dishes that is) so I am in heaven at the first taste of each dish. The prawns were fantastic - a pinch of Szechuan salt gave them a fiery hit and a squeeze of lime took the edge of the burn. The octopus was also great - tender with just the right about of bite, and I love green apple in a salad - just that little bit of acidity is perfect to offset the heat of the kimchi.

Now that the meal is over I go off to "powder my nose" only to return and find that The BFF has ordered dessert!!! He admits he is in totally tummy agony from our epic feast but he couldn't go past the mango and coconut bombe Alaska with lychee salad ($18.00). Furthermore he insists that I help him eat dessert. Oh, alright then.  My favourite part of this dish was the dehydrated lychee - it was sweet, crunchy and tasted a bit like a solid form of fairy floss.

Glass Brasserie is on Level 2 of the Hilton Hotel - 488 George Street, Sydney. Phone them on 9265-6068.